Pbus belay on belay? belay on Follow These Five Steps For Good PBUS Belaying Technique start pull brake under slide This video illustrates the B. Many devices have drawings to indicate how to place the rope. Knowing how to belay well is more important than ever. I have learned two types of belay techniques: pull, brake, under, slide (PBUS) or slip-slap-slide. Pull or take in the rope slack as the climber ascends the climbing wall. Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA) is a leading provider of rock climbing, caving, leadership development and experiential education in Thailand. Apr 3, 2018 · Just to add, one the of advantages of PBUS over hand-over-hand method is that it is theoretically easier to transition into lead belay mode when you learn to always have ONE hand on the rope, because with lead belay you generally have one hand feeding out slack, and the other one being the brake hand. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. 6 days ago · A universal rule for belaying is that your brake hand, which is palm down on the brake strand of the rope, should never come off the rope. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. Feb 13, 2018 · One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. Aug 19, 2013 · Full Playlist: https://www. PBUS has been the industry standard for quite a while and it has been proven to be easier to learn and safer for beginners. We give a few tips for effective belaying, assembling 1. Load the rope into your belay device at this point. Your brake hand should be just a few inches below your belay device. PBUS is taught to first timers because you can maintain a death grip with the brake strand. The PBUS technique involves using short, controlled, repetitive movements. B for Brake. Brake: Pull your brake hand down and toward you. What if I don’t pass the belay test? Explore the highlights of Crazy Horse Buttress crag through the Chiang Mai Outdoor Rock Climbing Adventure. Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS) Understand belay safety checks. 95% of the people I climb with Aug 3, 2024 · Learning how to belay correctly is key in climbing. In that scenario, I use guide mode on an ATC to belay the second climber (no PBUS), and a leader is just going to deal with a little extra slack for a moment, climbing past high clip if they choose to high clip. If you choose a belay course, usually a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outside), locking carabiner, belay device and rock sneakers are provided or available for lease. Correctly set up an ATC or Grigri belay device. Have your dominant hand on the lower or brake end and your non-dominant hand or guide hand on the upper or climbers end. youtube. Locked carabiner attached to belay loop, climber’s strand top, brake strand on the bottom. During this class we cover: Gym safety and orientation; Bouldering safety and best practice; Harnesses and harnessing; Petzl/AMGA PBUS belay technique; Usage of different belay devices 隨著裝備的改良與創新，確保技術也會因此而有部分的改變，目前最普遍的兩種確保器類型分別為管式確保器(Tube Belay Device)，如：ATC, Mantis…. I will analyze this by comparing this to an older, less efficient belay method, commonly known as slip, slap, slide. The document has moved here. Photo: Elliott Natz. PULL: Pull the climber strand towards the belay device with your guide hand. method and other tips. Belay Technique - PBUS or Bust! The following are the standard motions we require at LCC for safe belay technique. If you already know how to belay with a GriGri using the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) technique, you can attempt to get your belay certification by testing out with one of our staff during normal operating hours. The second person stands facing the primary belayer and pulls hand over hand on the rope (essentially pulling away from the primary belayer, through the GriGri). Each step of the test must be performed with 100% accuracy. U. " One attaches the GriGri on their harness as usual. VERSO Compact, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and for rappelling REVERSO® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor GRIGRI® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, optimized for learning Mar 16, 2025 · The PBUS belay technique can be effectively utilized for rock climbing safety by ensuring the belayer maintains proper positioning, keeps a firm grip on the rope, uses a belay device correctly The Essential measures in learning how to top-rope belay comprise: Gearing up; Set-up; Communication; Technique . Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, learn the ropes with our belay clinic. It is mainly used for sports climbing. PBUS stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Load your belay device. In my experience, even gyms that teach PBUS let tunnelling slide if you arent being a total idiot about it. Have your Top Rope certification at Sender One; Be able to follow the PBUS method when belaying. Inspect the Harness: Ensure both you and your climber’s harnesses are properly fastened with doubled-back buckles. There are a couple of methods of belaying, but the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) is perhaps the most popular. Belay Test Outs – Walk-Ins. also learn to PBUS belay. Remember to lock your belay carabiner. Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying. True, hanging belays are a pain in the ass with PBUS. For a hip belay, rather than a friction-plate device, the older Slip-Slide-Slap belay method (Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay technique) works well for managing the rope. get a grigri- its a little pricey but so worth it. Being a good belayer means knowing your gear and talking well with your partner. PBUS. Verbalize and identify all safety checks for climber and belayer; Catch an announced and an unannounced fall. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure Jun 21, 2023 · The easiest way to remember how to belay is PBUS or Pull, Break, Under and Slide. At the school I teach at (as a teacher and OE instructor) we teach solely the PBUS method. This method has the transition zone up by the belayers head, not down by the waist. May 6, 2012 · PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide” and the major difference is that the brake hand is UNDER the belay device in its resting position thus the device is always locked and ready to catch a fall, unless you are pulling rope. About 25% of the time I have to reteach to students who have been taught the Slap-and-Slide but instead of sliding they release. PBUS is a basic belaying technique that allows you to safely and steadily control the slack in the rope as your partner ascends. • Belay (manage the rope) such that a brake hand is maintained on the rope at all times. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. Jun 28, 2018 · Learn how to belay with a belay device using the P. During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. Rock gyms don’t require belay tests to trick or scare you away. Demonstrate A-B-C positioning Understand belay from above techniques New and experienced climbers alike learn how to control the ropes and belay their climbing partner in the correct, up to date, industry recommended manner. Jun 19, 2023 · PBUS. Mar 10, 2025 · Most belay classes will teach you the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) method. This class will cover the following topics: – Proper harness fitting – Tying in as a climber / Clipping in as a belayer / Safety & Partner Checks – PBUS / Lowering Techniques – Belay Zone / Belay Commands & Communication Our Intro to Rock Climbing course (also known as the Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventure) is designed to be a fun yet informative day of outdoor climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress. Moved Permanently. The PBUS method is widely endorsed as the most effective way to minimize misuse and prevent bad habits amongst new Early belay devices like the figure-8 plate were soon replaced by the popular tube style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC. thailandclimbing. However, top-rope belaying mostly involves bringing in rope slack cast off by the climber. Here is a good overview of the different belay About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright Make sure there is minimal slack in the rope from the climber to your belay device. Reply reply stille • Hey, you held the fall, so you did good. Check the Belay Device: Confirm the rope is threaded correctly through the belay device with the brake side positioned for easy handling. The ATC and other tube style devices were a significant leap ahead of the classic hip belay, but represent just one point in the continued evolution of rock climbing technology. The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. Photo: Elliott Natz The break position is made stronger by two things: by having the belay arm under compression and by being closer to the center of gravity. Demonstrate correct PBUS belay technique (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) and lowering technique. The PBUS method naturally allows for the secondary bend in the brake strand and minimizes time spent above the device (See Image Below). Belay techniques vary for many reasons. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. Jun 8, 2017 · Sure, the brake-under-slide (or PBUS) is the most redundant and reliable belay, but when you're standing on the 6th pitch of a rotten dolomite face trying to pull 70m of rope while dealing with rope drag so bad you can't tell if you're only taking up the slack or up-hauling your second, then you really don't care about your handwork. Before you tie in or set VERSO Compact, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and for rappelling REVERSO® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor GRIGRI® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, optimized for learning Dec 1, 2016 · This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Jul 18, 2019 · Special devices: @imsodin is right in suggesting a GriGri. Find out what gear you need, how to tie a figure 8 knot, and how to pass a belay test at Sportrock. We use this technique at our indoor climbing wall and at our challenge course. 等。 Climbing Nomads How to bottom rope belay in a safe and efficient way is a vital skill for any climber. The hand transition is securely in the braking position, and it’s hard to imagine the belayer losing control if the climber were to fall while the hand was sliding. Whether you have always wanted to try rock climbing and rappelling, or you are simply looking for a fun day outside of the touristy crowds in the city, this adventure is perfect for you. This locks the rope into the belay device, keeping your climber Sportrock's Ultimate Guide to Top Rope Belaying will walk you through the process of top rope belaying using the PBUS method. Other Belay Devices. Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing will also start teaching PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under-slide, aka "Pull, Brake, Up-Slide") belay instead of the old fashioned SSS (Slip, Slap, Slide) belay in this year's basic course. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Jun 30, 2023 · If you let your brake hand get too close to the belay device, you minimize your holding power and also risk your hand getting pinched in the device, so make sure you’re aware of where it is at all times. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Maga Have a 35m rope at SNA and a 45m rope at LAX and your own belay device. 1. With the old Hands Up method, the belay device was always in the open/pulley position, and the only way to Feb 1, 2022 · A correctly rigged Black Diamond ATC. It can mean the difference between safety and danger. The PBUS method—which stands for pull, brake, under, slide—is a tried and true technique that will ensure your hand never leaves the brake strand, while providing a safe belay. Top Rope tests will take approximately 5-10 minutes, and Lead tests will take approximately 20-30 minutes. While this video covers in deta Our Belay Class teaches participants the essential skill of top-rope belaying. PBUS is an acronym that stands for "pull, brake, under, slide. B. Then lift your brake strand and pull on it to draw that amount of slack through the belay device. The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. Oct 15, 2021 · Top-roping involves many of the same belay techniques as lead climbing. Types of belay devices: Your belay device is used to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower your climbing partner. Every bit of rope and gear matters. Part 1: Applying Top Rope Belaying to Lead Belaying We’ll be demonstrating the PBUS method of belaying. It’ll allow you to venture beyond the auto-belays and boulder mats, form belaytionships, and challenge yourself in new ways. Dec 15, 2020 · Regardless of your belay device, these rules are always true: First of all, make sure your device is compatible with the diameter of your climbing rope: not all belay devices work on every rope. 等；以及輔助制動確保器(Assisted Braking Device)，如：GriGri, LifeGuard…. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee 6 days ago · The PBUS method—which stands for pull, brake, under, slide—is a tried and true technique that will ensure your hand never leaves the brake strand, while providing a safe belay. " Mar 17, 2022 · Like all belay devices, (PBUS) technique to take slack out of the climbing system, which maintains hands-on contact with the braking strand throughout. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. For the method: The common trick is to have two "belayers. 161 of Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed. The Belay Class covers: Pull Break Underhand Slide (PBUS) Belay Technique; Gri-Gri belay devices; Proper use and tie-ins of harnesses A climber rests on a belay rope in a gym surrounded by colorful holds. While top-roping, the PBUS method is a Feb 12, 2018 · How to belay. This article covers belay with a tubular device. This video is not a substitution for personal instruction with a professional instructor o Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. S. Oct 22, 2013 · One of the most important baseline skills is toprope belaying. You will use the same PBUS belay technique for both the ATC and Grigri. Mar 21, 2024 · Getting your belay certification is an exciting step on your rock climbing journey. As your climber ascends, take away the remaining slack in the rope by pulling the brake end of the rope up and out of the belay device. Momentum instructs with and encourages use of the Pull-Break-Under-Slide (PBUS) belay method. Pull the brake strand away from the One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Taking Slack: PBUS Technique. Demonstrate your mastery of belaying techniques and equipment usage. As with top roping, the climber’s strand should exit the device from the hole closest to you. • Catch simulated falls and demonstrate the proper lowering technique. belay technique. If you’re already an experienced belayer, feel free to skip this step! Ace the belay test to show off your skills. To handle the demands of top-rope belaying, use a technique called the PBUS method. I use PBUS, and as the blog discusses, it's becoming almost universal now to teach beginners PBUS. Once your partner has tied in, grab the rope such that there’s 5 to 10 feet of slack between you and your leader. Almost universally, most guides are now teaching the PBUS technique to beginners. The S&S is easier to transition into a lead belay, but also easier to screw up than PBUS. We’ll be looking for proficiency in the PBUS belay method: Pull, Break, Under, Slide. Gearing Up to Belay. • Demonstrate pre-climbing checks and commands. The brake hand must grip the brake strand at all times and the system must be in brake position when sliding the brake hand up. We will be asking you about: 3 safety checks for a harness: Snug and above hipbones; Buckles are double backed Shop for Belay and Rappel Devices at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. We’ve got the scoop on what we’re looking for in order to pass your belay test with flying colors. Taking a belay test at The Pad? Check out this handy dandy study guide (save a tree and print only if absolutely necessary, please). Sep 25, 2021 · My youth program (and also my climbing gym for after-midnight programs) requires backup belayers, and half-heartedly trains backup belayers to use a hip belay. com**Climbing is inherently dangerous. Over the last 20 years, climbing has grown a lot. Brake Under Slide Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. Its not comfortable or fast, but its harder to get wrong. Brake hand must be kept on the rope at all times 目前台灣的攀岩館都可以接受 PBUS 的確保法，也是目前國際在用的確保法。因此就安全上的因素及技術更新，頂繩攀登及運動攀登下方確保的狀況下，我們目前已經不接受或教授 SSS 的確保方式! 實際的 PBUS 動作可參考下面由Climbing 雜誌所拍攝的影片介紹 The PBUS belay method is an excellent belay technique that ensures the brake hand never leaves the rope. Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well— is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. Belay with the PBUS Technique. Grab the • Set up to belay a climber. Now, it’s PBUS time. They are in place to ensure you know the safety procedures so you and those you climb with have an enjoyable and The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device. Pull: Pull down on the climber’s strand. Set up your belay device by putting the rope in it following the instructions. The sequence we follow is PULL, BRAKE, UNDER, SLIDE (PBUS). This includes climbing terminology, equipment inspection and usage, proper knot tying, safety commands, and belay technique. 2. Perform the the PBUS belay method. The PAS is usually in the way, and you can't move. . PBUS is an acronym for the following: P - Pull B - Brake or Bottom US - Up-Slide In other words, your guide hand is on the line coming out of the device and running up the rock to the climber. com/playlist?list=PLLALQuK1NDrjugIQA3Te01g3ksXghWCMR--Rockin’ Rock Climbing CommoditiesMomentum Climbing Harness: http://a http://www. Gyms (and guides) have adopted the PBUS as the preferred technique. qnr cefye krw wqihm rdp chso pnw wqrd xei ryhat ixiu sxke jhf nlyg ywksv